Annapurna Circuit: Day Four

I have used an entire tube of superglue on my boot and I hope it works. I also hope the superglue wasn’t counterfeit, as are so many things around here, but I paid a reassuring equivalent of GBP 1.50 to a chap with one eye, one leg and a parrot on his shoulder, so what can go wrong?

Overnight rain stopped promptly at 7.15 this morning so the fact that we are late again was a blessing. Also a blessing was the track that either went upwards or level sparing us (or me in particular) the heartbreak of descending when we are climbing. This wonderful state of affairs lasted well over an hour before the original trail took over and swung us down to a river that we had to cross on foot.

This was right on the edge of possible as the overnight rains had swelled the stream so that only a few rocks breathed fresh air. It was a bit of a gamble rock hopping the river as a loss of balance wouldn’t simply end with us getting soaked but all our kit also, including precious cameras. Nevertheless, off I went whilst Debbie videoed my attempt in the hope that I would fall in and we could sell the film to a programme like “You’ve been framed!” for a whopping GBP50. Of course I made it, my parents didn’t nickname me ‘Ibex’ for nothing!

The elation of escaping an early bath soon evaporated when we were now faced with a steep climb that wound through forests of pine that were dotted with rhododendron. Whilst the environment was wonderful the climb certainly wasn’t, gaining 500metres very quickly. Reaching a nice gentle section, we stood up straight, lifted our heads up, took in lung-fulls of air and tried to relax but the trail is only flirting with us as we have to climb again to reach a fabulous vista point at 2500metres (8,200ft).

Part of our struggle is due to the altitude as the oxygen in the air begins to disappear and all physical effort demands more and more breaks to fuel the body. But we cannot begin to complain yet as we haven’t got half-way to the highest altitude of this trek, never mind what we hope to achieve on Everest.

Where we are now is still below the cloud base and we are treated to views of the mighty mountains only occasionally. When we are, there are fabulous views of the summit Manaslu 8,156metres (26,750ft) which is nothing when compared to other peaks in the area and is streaked in snow in a black and white monochrome. Nonetheless it looks pretty impressive to us.

We then begin the long, and gentle, descent past a village called Thanchowk which looks dirt poor and a throwback to the Middle Ages. It is the most traditional and authentic settlement that we have encountered and seems unaffected by tourism, probably because no one stops here.

Poor Debbie has been going down all morning with the Nepalese version of Delhi belly and has to find an appropriate tree/bush/rock with increasing regularity as the sickness takes hold. It also saps her strength making physical effort harder and harder for her as our progress is slowing markedly.

It was with great relief when Charme came into view and affording us a chance to stop and let her recover. At the entrance to the village there is a long line of prayer wheels, maybe 50 in all, so I spun them vigorously. If Buddhism is an effective religion surely it would bless my wife with an overnight cure.

Annapurna Circuit: Day Four
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